Cycling through the Winter Holidays - Baku to Batumi

12th of January 2020, Day 151 - 6,010 kmish

Day 124 - We're getting a hang of this selfie business

Spending the winter holidays alone travelling has been a odd experience. It is by far the most set aside period we have for family and friends, the last surviving celebration of community. If you had told me 5 years ago I'd be spending the Christmas and New Years of 2020 on my bill, I'd have assumed something had gone tragically wrong in my life. At the beginning of the trip, I predicted this would be where I'd be hit hardest by homesick blues.

But actually it has been the most stress free and relaxing start to another rotation round the sun that I've ever had. None of that mad dash to buy presents. No desperate attempts to force all of my friends to commit to plans. And no constant Christmas songs or adverts to load on the pressure. In fact, I don't think I heard a single Christmas song all year.

Fam

Day 121 - The view coming into Baku

I did get a Pre-Christmas present though to assuage the Homesickness part. My parents are knee deep in God stuff these days, leading a church out where they live in Malaysia. Christmas itself was off the cards, as they had over half the congregation round at their house for dinner on Baby J's birthday. However they did find a small gap in their busy schedule to come and see me in Azerbaijan. The only real shame is that Lorna couldn't make it too.

All the new travelling friends I've met have been very jealous. I guess a lot of people lose touch with their family on a long trip like this, but with us it has done nothing but bring us closer together. I now speak to them more often than I ever have before. They have by far been the biggest source of support, whether it be a sympathetic ear or a sage piece of advice. I'd go so far as to say we've transcended our family bond's now, and are finally becoming friends.

Day 125 - On a tour of the old city

Base camp was Baku, and because I wasn't paying we could actually do touristy stuff like eat at nice places, go round and see the sights, and most importantly, stay in a swanky hotel. Azerbaijan had a huge injection of oil money in the 90s, and it's all been spent  in the capital. Baku is truly stunning. It's a strange juxtaposition of the old town with its Parisian curving cobblestones and balconies, and the humongous glass skyscrapers . Much like Shanghai, there is a competition here for which weird and wonderful architectural delight can stand out the most, nestled in the bay surrounded by mountains.

Day 126 - Our view of sunrise from the hotel breakfast

The best part though was being with people I know and can be instantly comfortable with after a four month sea of unending new faces. With Uni and then moving to Japan, I've been living away from my family for over 10 years, and it has taught me one real truth. Home is being with the people you love. I am eternally grateful my parents would go all the way to some random city in Central Asia to bring it to me, on a trip so empty of it.

Day 129 - A rare snap of me actually on the bike, as I never have anyone there to take my picture

(They also just as importantly brought me a new set of tires. Doesn't do as much for the homesickness, but is a vital part of me getting back.)

Christmas on a Bike

The long break was exactly what I needed to get my mental back to a good place, ready to go and do it all over again. It also let me build a great base knowledge with which to tackle Azerbaijan. In Baku I'd had enough time to settle. I learned a little of the language, a little of the culture, and knew what to expect from the food. Now, a 7 day dash of 580km to make it to the Georgian Capital Tblisi for New Years.

Day 133 - You may not believe it, but those vague shapes in the background are camels! Finally, after 3 months on the silck road. The herdsman tells me they're "very expensive. Very delicious."

The ride was perfect, in part because of the Azeri people. They are just so full of joy and laughter. The Kazakhs, Kyrgyis, and Uzbeks are many things, but they are not quick to smile. They've inherited that Russia aversion to showing emotions unless absolutely necessary. Even in photos. We'd be having a whale of a time, then I'd look back after at the pictures to a row of grim faces, with me beaming from ear to ear on the end.

Here though everything is full of humor. The Azeri are always cracking jokes and laughing. People call out warmly to greet you with Salam - Peace. As I got onto smaller roads, every driver honked and waved as I trundled on by. Honestly it felt like I was on the final leg of the Tour de France, with people constantly waving and cheering me on. *

Day 133 - Merry Christmas from Ganja!

So on Christmas itself I cycled 70km, but I'd just been Home, so didn't feel the pinch. It helped that there was absolutely no indication it was even a festive period to remind me what I was missing. I ended up in Ganja city (no relation to the green) and went out for drinks with the owner of the Hostel there. Great guy whose name I've completely forgotten, in part because I'm not used to drinking, so 3 pints had me on my knees. He gave me the great advice of avoiding the main border crossing and going to the lesser known one at Sadakhli.

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It also meant that on the way I could stop and camp next to a very interesting phenomenon that happens here. Azerbaijan is known as the Land of Fire, in part because of  the natural gas reserve leaks that at some point were set on fire to create ever-burning flames. The old old religion here is Zoroastrianism, who worship fire, so most of these flames are enshrined in temples or tourist centers, but this one is out in the middle of nowhere. Spring water and the natural gas come up together, a perfect place to camp.

Day 135 - Early morning fire to make coffee and oatmeal. An old woman came and gave me the bucket full of water, apparently a forest-fire would not be good.

(Although when I got there,  I questioned whether I'd come to the right place. The fire was out. I felt very silly stood over the water spout with lit matches, but eventually got it to light. Turns out even eternal flames die once in a while.)

Europe?

Just as quickly as it started, the Azeri cycling adventure was over and I was in Georgia. The change from country to country has been rather gradual since Kazakhstan, but Georgia is something else. For one their language is completely unique, with their very own alphabet. If you've never seen it before I recommend checking it out. It is so different to anything else I've ever seen, like an alien language from some sci-fi movie. Looks like very curvy n's and m's and o's with special flicks all over the place. Definitely the most challenging sign to write for the back of my bike.

Day 138 - An ancient engraving outside the cathedral in Mtskheta

Many of the places I've been have felt new, finding their feet as a nation. Georgia however feels like it has been there forever, picking up right where it left off when the Russians left. Well, mostly left. South Ossetia and Abkhazia are still occupied by Russian troops. There are signs all over saying "Russia occupies 20% of my Country".

The big change could be because for all intensive purposes I've crossed not just from one country to another, but rather across a continental border. The mosques and temples have been replaced by Cathedrals and Monasteries. Cheese is everywhere. The stone buildings and graffiti at least in Tblisi make it feel like I'm in Berlin.

(There seems to be some debate on where the actual continental line is drawn. Clearly economically and politically, Georgia and Turkey are European. Traditionally though they are usually put in Asia. I hope for the sake of my travel insurance that they count for the former.)

New Year, New Me

It has come to my attention that while I get better and better at travelling, I remain a terrible tourist. I have been blessed throughout my life with amazing friends, planners, who do all the arranging. All I've ever done is be around great people and said "Yes, lets do it!" when they come up with a plan. Now I'm on my own, there's no one there to do the leg work and I end up doing nothing. On more than one occasion I've come into a beautiful city full of culture and things to do, but instead cocooned myself in a hostel.  Actually doing stuff in Baku with the family made me realise what a waste that's been. From here on out I am resolved to push myself to do more with my "break time" in cities. Starting with New Year in Tblisi.

Day 138 - Mariam very sneakily managed to dodge being in any of my photos, but here she is  on the left buying me some wine-flavored ice cream.

I have to at this point give a huge shout out to Mariam. By a great stroke of luck, my Dad knows a guy in the Georgian Embassy, and his daughter was back from University for the holidays. My social life has become so dire on this trip that rather than irritated, I was overjoyed when my parents set me up on a friend-date. Mariam took me out for dinner and showed me round the town, then the next day took me to Mtskheta, the old capital, to see what a traditional Georgian Cathedral town is like (don't ask me how to pronounce it, I've got no idea. Far too many consonants squished together.) New Years is a busy time balancing commitments to family and friends, but she somehow made the time to tour guide for me twice. People are good etc.

Day 138 - The view from a monastery overlooking Mtskheta

Then on New Years Eve, I did the impossible and fit some snowboarding in. Gudauri is about an hour and a half from Tblisi, but when I found out there was snow and the lifts were open I couldn't help but try. You have to take a Marshrutka, which appears to the the main form of long distance travel in this area. Its basically a big white van that functions as a share taxi. There's no booking ahead, so you just show up and wait until there's enough people wanting to go to make it worthwhile for the driver.

Day 139 - On the way up

Day 139 - View from the top

Gudauri was beautiful, so unlike the slopes in Japan. The whole mountain is above the tree-line, so everywhere you look is open powder and rocky crags. The season had only just started, and there wasn't really enough snow, but at the top there was just enough. After 5 seasons riding in Japan, I felt pretty confident, so decided to go off piste a little and take advantage of the untouched snow I could see. Big mistake. Just under the surface were giant rocks and boulders, which left my shins a lovely shade of purple. I had no real snow gear, so ended the day soaked, bruised, but extremely happy I'd pushed myself to go out and make the most of it.

Day 141- Leaving Fabrika

I'd been staying at Fabrika. As soon as you arrive, the walls covered in street art let you know this is not a normal hostel. 400 beds, 3 bars downstairs, and a courtyard complete with record store, skate shop, ice cream parlor, and mulled wine stand. Every night I met different people to drink with, and on New Years Eve I went with some guys to Rustaveli square for the countdown.

Insanity. For 10 minutes before midnight, people were setting off hand rocket fireworks from the crowd all around us. Felt like a bona fide war zone. Everyone was handing around bottles of home-made Cha-Cha, the 60% Georgian grappa-esque liquor. Be warned, it's a terrible hangover. Then back to the hostel for some live music and a DJ. I put myself to bed at 5am as the party roared on below me. When I got up at 9am for coffee, the place was still half full of people not yet ready to give up on festivities.

The Dog

The Georgian Church is also unique. They're orthodox like Russia, but with their very own spin. All the cathedrals and monasteries are full of stylised painting, the saints all with long noses and faces, and big soulful brown eyes. After seeing them, I can't help but see the similarities to the Georgian people. Their Christmas is on the 7th of January and celebrations run all the way from New Year.

Day 138 - The cathedral in Mtskheta. Apparently Jesus's robe is buried here. A woman once opened it, touched the robe, and instantly died, so she's buried here too.

I'm not sure whether i'ts the cycling, or the people, or the drinking, but I can firmly say that Georgia has been the best two weeks of the trip so far. After a much needed hangover day, I set out on the 2nd, Day 141, to closed shops and deserted streets. The weather was beautiful, and the mountains even more so, so decided to take the B-roads through picturesque villages, each house with it's own vineyard in the back garden.

Right as I get onto the B-road, I notice a dog on the other side of the road, and wave hi jokingly as it stares back across at me. Next thing I know, the dog is running alongside me. Not barking like usual, just jogging along as if we'd planned to meet up earlier that day. She follows for about a km, before I decide she's earned some petting.  I stop to pet her and have a snack, which  is where I make my big mistake - giving her a bit of bread. Now she won't leave me alone.

Day 141 - Completely uninterested in the view

For the next two hours my new companion paces along beside me, 15km, all the way to where I decide to camp. Mostly uphill, so it's easy for her to keep up. At this point I'm having fantasies of a trip-long doggy pal, buying a dog cart for the bike, and bringing her all the way.

Camping is an absolute joy with another being around to share the sunset with. But I quickly discover Dog's first bad habit: humping everything. The bags. The bike. The tent. My back everytime I'm crouched down leaving muddy footprints all over my jacket.

Even so she settles down for the night, sharing my fire, and even obediently curling up in the tent entrance to get out of the wind.

Day 142 - More interested in the view

I wake up the next day and Dog is still there. Today is much tougher for her though. After peaking the ridge, there's a lot of downhill, so I have to wait for her to catch up. She still sprints after me though, racing at break neck speeds to keep up with her new-found pack.

Then on the flats I discover her second bad habit: getting in front of the bike, and roaming about in the road despite the onctraffic. I near enough had a heart attack multiple times as she nonchalantly jogged across in front of giant trucks, or unexpectedly stopped directly in fornt of me, forcing me to slam the breaks.

Still she manages to make it another 25km with me but is starting to flag.

Her final bad habit was the real breaking point though. As you can tell, there's a whole bunch of stray dogs here. In the towns and villages, they are wards of the state, with a little yellow tab in their ear letting you know they've been vaccinated and safe. Every village we pass through, she would set them all off, barking and fronting, starting full-on brawls outside of shops and street corners.

Day 142 - The delicious fresh bread

I decide it's probably best for everyone if we part ways. I give her a sausage from my bag, share the delicious bread fresh bread I bought earlier with her, and say my goodbyes. While I'm in the corner shop, she gets distracted tussling with some other dogs, so I take my chance and leg it. I hope she enjoyed our time together as much as I did, and her life isn't ruined too much by relocating 40km west.

Christmas on a Bike II: Electric Boogaloo

Christmas celebrations are still in full swing around me. Day 143, I decide to continue on the B-roads after how stunning the views have been. Excellent riding, climbs up and slopes down, but mostly up through more and more remote villages.

In the early afternoon I get to Kareli and decide to go into a bakery for lunch, one of the only ones I'd seen open. Inside is the whole family sat about chatting. I join them to eat my fried bready goods, which is when the father decides we should drink some wine. Except in Georgia they don't just sip a glass. They toast, then down the whole thing.

Day 143 - To day drinking!

Four glasses later, completely day drunk, I set off in a spectacular mood and precede to get instantly lost. The wind picks up, but for the first time it is going my way. I enjoy it way too much and miss my turning. Rather than go back, I decide to cut through on smaller and smaller roads. First gravel, then mud and rocks, and finally a dirt track, as I drag my bike up a hill to the peak between where I've ended up and the road I'm supposed to be on. Stunning. Definitely the best picture I've taken so far.

Day 143 - Lost in a field

I then fly down the other side on another dirt track to the highway. Having completely not learned my lesson, I head blindly off the other side into more villages and am forced onto even more rocky roads. Finally I find some pavement and push on the last 10km to Khashuri.

Day 144 - Through the mountain pass to Zestaponi

Day 145, 6th of January. Christmas eve. I arrive at a beautiful guesthouse in Samtredia, which of course comes fully equipped with dogs: this time two adorable energetic puppies. They had some family over, but the owner Giorgi who spoke great English insisted I join them. The spread was ridiculous. A full on feast. Authentic homecooked Georgian food by grandma and great grandma.

Day 145 - The feast

No one else was eating much though as they'd all been feasting for 6 days straight. And of course, homemade wine. Toast after toast, each time downing the glass. For dead relatives. For Georgia. For the Children. Even one for me on my travels. At this point I'm beyond drunk and can't help but tear up a little.

Day 145 - Granddad insisted on having a go on my bike

We stay up till midnight, and I accept the fact I'll be staying one more day. There's no way I'm riding out of here with a hangover like this.

Over the Hump

I'm now writing in Batumi, right near the border of Turkey, hiding from the torrential rain we've had here for 3 days straight. As mum keeps saying, its strange how we experience time. The millennium seems like only yesterday, but last week feels like months and months ago. I can hardly believe it's gone so fast, but today is Day 150. Halfway (Well it was when I started writing, but it's taken me a while to get the blog done.) And yet, China feels like it was another life-time ago. Here's to 5 more months of adventure. Happy New Year everyone.

Day 138 - Tblisi at night from up on the cablecar

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* After last time's post, I just want to make some corrections in favor of Uzbekistan. The more and more I think about it, the more I realise that where I was mentally sort of ruined Uzbekistan for me. The cheers I received in Azerbaijan would just have easily been painted as jeers before on the way to Samarkand. A bunch of people have written to tell me they'd had an absolutely brilliant time in Uzbekistan, so please don't let my bad mood put you off. After the change in President, the conditions in Uzbekistan have slowly been improving, and I'm told that last year they changed policy and payed all the workers in the cotton fields.